Hello, I’m Maurice Morningstar and I’ve been a ranger in the field for over 20 years. I could pick anywhere in California - and chose the Northcoast because it’s spectacular and special.

When you look at the trees you know that this redwood region is a land of giants unlike anywhere else. This is one of the most geologically active places on the planet. That means lots of earthquakes - many very small ones and an occasional big shaker. These occur because we live on the very edge of what geologists call a “subduction zone”. This means that one of the earth’s huge techtonic plates is diving beneath another one that bends, folds and faults the land. This creates a unique pattern in the coastline - our “lagoons” - a string of pearls that lets you look back in time and see a process that continues today. By some accounts, this is the largest lagoon system in North America*.

A lagoon is simply defined as a body of water next to the ocean, separated by a narrow beach, or “spit”. It occasionally breaks open so the river-fed lagoon gets a good dose of ocean water. This “breaching” means that the water in the lagoon will always have some amount of saltwater and is called “brackish”. If a lagoon doesn’t breach anymore it loses its title and officially becomes a “lake“.

In Humboldt Lagoons State Park, we were able to film the breaching process at Stone Lagoon. With the Winter storms the watersheds that feed Stone Lagoon cause the water level to rise. Ever more violent ocean storms create strong winds and large waves that pound on the fragile spit. The pressure from both sides builds - most intensely from the bulging lagoon. It is getting ready to overflow. A little leaking may begin and some waters will mix through the sand. Here you can see some of the ocean starting to spill into the lagoon as it seems almost ready to burst - maybe the next big storm will do it.

Then that special combination of pressure, storm, and high tide causes the lagoon to breach - leaving an open gap where the ocean and lagoon waters freely mix. It is an incredible - and dangerous - event that few have witnessed. In a couple of intense minutes, when it just breaks open, there is a large roar as the lagoon can drop its level by several feet as portions of the spit melt away. The lagoon level will rise and drop for a half-an-hour as it tries to reach its new steady-state.

Sometimes a breached lagoon will close and reopen several times in the Winter season. Stone Lagoon will breach about two out of three years. Here, speeded up thirty times, you can easily see the waters mix. Finally the process will end until the next Winter. Stone Lagoon will keep its brackish water with fresh water from the creeks feeding into it.

This view looking Northward up from Big Lagoon gives you some idea of those gigantic geologic forces. You can almost see the water-filled valleys created by the immense pressure of huge sections of land pushed up by the ocean techtonic plate. These forces created the lagoons and you can see their continuing evolution today.

Big Lagoon, Stone Lagoon, and Dry Lagoon are the three found in the state park system. They are classic examples of robust lagoons. Big Lagoon is around 100,000 years old. Its underlying land can bend a couple of feet every time there is major subduction-zone earthquake. Dry Lagoon shows how some lagoons may dry up and go back and forth between marsh and meadow land.

Among those who know these laggons are The Yurok, the largest indigenous tribe in California with over 5400 members. Their ancestral lands encompass the lower 40 miles of the Klamath River to the ocean, and coastal areas including the lagoons.

Very unusual creatures live in the salty waters of the lagoons and a whole host of others live in the burrows, bushes, and trees. From the ever-present pelicans to the endangered snowy plover over 50 species of birds make their permanent home at the lagoons and more than 100 other species pass through on migrations, some that span thousands of miles.

Most mammals are nocturnal or are very shy, like the mountain lion whose territory is so large that there may not be any individuals within Humboldt Lagoons State Park. Roosevelt Elk roam freely and are often seen by visitors along the road. Sometimes you’ll see them down for a brief romp in the water like these in Stone Lagoon. Gray Whales can be seen from the shore as they migrate North to Alaska in May and June and returning in November and December to their breeding grounds off the coast of Mexico.

Fish living in the lagoon waters are specially adapted to live in fresh water, ocean salt water, and the brackish lagoons - like the unique Coastal Cutthroat Trout or tidewater goby. In the Winter, large schools of Steelhead Trout circle in the ocean just outside the lagoon waiting for the breach - they can actually smell the fresh water seeping through the sand. Be sure to look for the special educational and fun events that occur during the year.

Redwoods are less abundant around the lagoon due to the high winds coming right off the ocean. You’ll find more alder and Sitka Spruce. Under the canopy are the beautiful western azalea, a member of the Rhododendron family.

Mushrooms are especially abundant in the wetter months and like all plants and animals in the parks they must not taken. The only exception to this rule are the berries: blackberries, thimbleberries, and huckleberries that you can pick and enjoy.

More details on all the animals and plants are available here at the Stone Lagoon Visitor Center right on Highway 101. Exhibits, maps, and other informational materials will guide you to wonderful nature trails and weekend boating opportunities. Nearby campgrounds are best reserved early.

Remember that dogs are only allowed in the State Parks on short leashes. And be on the watch for large sudden “sleeper waves” that can surprise you on the surf line and sweep you into the ocean. The wave slopes are very steep and very dangerous - deaths do occur.

Of particular concern to the health of the Northcoast environment is the New Zealand Mud Snail, an invasive species that has been found in both Big and Stone lagoons. The snail has the potential to colonize the bottom of aquatic systems, and if left unchecked, can severely disrupt the food supply for many animals. You can help prevent the spread of the New Zealand Mud Snail by removing visible snails with a stiff brush followed with rinsing. If possible, freeze or completely dry out any wet gear.

For supplies and a great look at recent history the small town of Orick is close by. The Orick Inn hosted presidents in its heyday and this old lumber town once boomed with mills and workers. Today you find loggers, burl artists, and the homes of many national and state park personnel.

There is nothing like the redwoods, nothing like the Northcoast, and nothing like our spectacular and gracious lagoons. California State Park Staff are always ready to provide any help we can to make your stay more enlightening and enjoyable!